LETMEFLY TO MUMBAI
Stories from a city that never pauses
People often ask me how I choose my next destination.
Sometimes I choose it, but more often, the destination chooses me.
That was the case with India. I set off for a wedding straight out of a fairytale — one that lasted several days — and found myself in a city that refuses to slow down.
Sometimes I choose it, but more often, the destination chooses me.
That was the case with India. I set off for a wedding straight out of a fairytale — one that lasted several days — and found myself in a city that refuses to slow down.
India is incredible for many reasons, but one of them is this: no matter the hour, the city is alive.
4:00 AM, Mumbai
Four in the morning. I arrived in Mumbai after fourteen hours of misadventures: a fuel leak on the plane I was supposed to fly from Bucharest, followed by a full sprint through Dubai airport.
I landed in the middle of summer, while back home it was still February.
People everywhere. Cars. Noise. Movement. A constant hum.
Driving through Mumbai is an adventure in itself. Traffic never stops. Lanes are optional. Horns never rest. Chaos rules.
Four in the morning. I arrived in Mumbai after fourteen hours of misadventures: a fuel leak on the plane I was supposed to fly from Bucharest, followed by a full sprint through Dubai airport.
I landed in the middle of summer, while back home it was still February.
People everywhere. Cars. Noise. Movement. A constant hum.
Driving through Mumbai is an adventure in itself. Traffic never stops. Lanes are optional. Horns never rest. Chaos rules.
First stop: The Taj Mahal Palace
Right after landing, our first stop was the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel.
Getting from the airport to the city can take anywhere between 45 minutes and three hours, depending entirely on traffic — and it shouldn’t cost more than 7–10 euros.
Our plan was simple: wait for sunrise.
The hotel has a fascinating history. It was built in 1903 by the richest man in India at the time, after he was denied entry to a luxury hotel in Mumbai because it was restricted to white guests only.
The Taj Mahal Palace became the first hotel in India to have electricity, American fans, German elevators, Turkish baths, and British butlers. It also housed India’s first licensed bar, the first restaurant open 24/7, and the country’s first nightclub.
Right after landing, our first stop was the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel.
Getting from the airport to the city can take anywhere between 45 minutes and three hours, depending entirely on traffic — and it shouldn’t cost more than 7–10 euros.
Our plan was simple: wait for sunrise.
The hotel has a fascinating history. It was built in 1903 by the richest man in India at the time, after he was denied entry to a luxury hotel in Mumbai because it was restricted to white guests only.
The Taj Mahal Palace became the first hotel in India to have electricity, American fans, German elevators, Turkish baths, and British butlers. It also housed India’s first licensed bar, the first restaurant open 24/7, and the country’s first nightclub.
Sunrise at the Gateway of India
Just across the street from the hotel stand the Gateway of India, which opens to the public at 7:00 AM — the perfect hour to be there. It’s still cool, and the crowds haven’t arrived yet.
With half-closed eyes and bags trailing behind us, we crossed the street to watch the sun rise over the Arabian Sea. We leaned against the railing, quietly observing as hundreds of birds flew above us.
These were the first moments of the morning.
It’s beautiful to watch the sunlight filter through the Gateway of India. Once upon a time, this was the very first thing you saw when arriving in India by sea. It was where important guests were welcomed — and also the place through which the last British soldiers left the country.
Just across the street from the hotel stand the Gateway of India, which opens to the public at 7:00 AM — the perfect hour to be there. It’s still cool, and the crowds haven’t arrived yet.
With half-closed eyes and bags trailing behind us, we crossed the street to watch the sun rise over the Arabian Sea. We leaned against the railing, quietly observing as hundreds of birds flew above us.
These were the first moments of the morning.
It’s beautiful to watch the sunlight filter through the Gateway of India. Once upon a time, this was the very first thing you saw when arriving in India by sea. It was where important guests were welcomed — and also the place through which the last British soldiers left the country.
Above the city
The most beautiful moment of that morning was coffee on a rooftop.
I’m afraid of heights, but seeing Mumbai from above — the early-morning rush, the endless movement of people and cars — was worth every ounce of fear.
One attraction not to be missed in Mumbai is Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus railway station.
The most beautiful moment of that morning was coffee on a rooftop.
I’m afraid of heights, but seeing Mumbai from above — the early-morning rush, the endless movement of people and cars — was worth every ounce of fear.
One attraction not to be missed in Mumbai is Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus railway station.
The city in motion
Mumbai has a population of around 23 million people. At six in the evening, everyone heads home — and the busiest place in the city becomes the central train station.
There is something strangely comforting about standing among thousands of people rushing past you, knowing that you have nowhere to go and nothing you need to do.
The station itself is breathtaking. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, designed by a British architect. Around 1,000 trains pass through it daily, transporting nearly three million people.
You’ve probably seen videos online showing people hanging from train doors in India. It’s true — but not always because the trains are too crowded, sometimes, it’s simply the only way to cool down.
Mumbai has a population of around 23 million people. At six in the evening, everyone heads home — and the busiest place in the city becomes the central train station.
There is something strangely comforting about standing among thousands of people rushing past you, knowing that you have nowhere to go and nothing you need to do.
The station itself is breathtaking. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, designed by a British architect. Around 1,000 trains pass through it daily, transporting nearly three million people.
You’ve probably seen videos online showing people hanging from train doors in India. It’s true — but not always because the trains are too crowded, sometimes, it’s simply the only way to cool down.
Getting around
When it comes to transportation, I recommend using Uber. The fare is fixed, visible before you confirm the ride, and payment is automatic — no surprises. It’s also very affordable. A 13-kilometer ride cost me around four euros.
There’s also a local app called Rapido, slightly cheaper, though the cars tend to be more… local.
And then there are rickshaws. If you’re looking for adrenaline, you have to try one.
Crossing the street in India is a challenge in itself. You don’t wait — you leap, weaving between cars, trusting instinct more than logic.
When it comes to transportation, I recommend using Uber. The fare is fixed, visible before you confirm the ride, and payment is automatic — no surprises. It’s also very affordable. A 13-kilometer ride cost me around four euros.
There’s also a local app called Rapido, slightly cheaper, though the cars tend to be more… local.
And then there are rickshaws. If you’re looking for adrenaline, you have to try one.
Crossing the street in India is a challenge in itself. You don’t wait — you leap, weaving between cars, trusting instinct more than logic.
The other side of Mumbai
The largest slum in the world is in Mexico; the third largest is in Mumbai — Dharavi. Many people only know what a ghetto looks like from photos online or from films like Slumdog Millionaire.
Dharavi is home to around one million people living on just two square kilometers, making it one of the most densely populated areas in the world. Dirt and overcrowding are everywhere.
Slums in India play an active role in the underground economy. Many businesses employ residents from these areas. The estimated annual income generated there exceeds one billion dollars.
We didn’t visit Dharavi. Instead, we went to another slum — Worli Koliwada — accompanied by a local friend, as it’s a fairly closed community.
Worli was once a fishing village on the shores of the Arabian Sea. Today, it’s a maze of shacks, mud, garbage, darkness, and poverty. The area lacks clean drinking water, electricity, and sanitation services.
The people were curious — some welcoming, some less so — but I never felt unsafe.
Despite everything you hear in the media about how dangerous India is, I felt safe there. Of course, basic precautions are necessary, as in any destination.
The largest slum in the world is in Mexico; the third largest is in Mumbai — Dharavi. Many people only know what a ghetto looks like from photos online or from films like Slumdog Millionaire.
Dharavi is home to around one million people living on just two square kilometers, making it one of the most densely populated areas in the world. Dirt and overcrowding are everywhere.
Slums in India play an active role in the underground economy. Many businesses employ residents from these areas. The estimated annual income generated there exceeds one billion dollars.
We didn’t visit Dharavi. Instead, we went to another slum — Worli Koliwada — accompanied by a local friend, as it’s a fairly closed community.
Worli was once a fishing village on the shores of the Arabian Sea. Today, it’s a maze of shacks, mud, garbage, darkness, and poverty. The area lacks clean drinking water, electricity, and sanitation services.
The people were curious — some welcoming, some less so — but I never felt unsafe.
Despite everything you hear in the media about how dangerous India is, I felt safe there. Of course, basic precautions are necessary, as in any destination.
A city of extremes
Mumbai is the richest city in India. It has more millionaires and billionaires than any other city in Central Asia. Alongside immense wealth and opulence, poverty is ever-present.
The scenery changes abruptly — from slums to luxury car showrooms. The gap between rich and poor is enormous. And yet, the city functions.
The people give it its unique charm. They are friendly, warm, and almost always smiling.
Mumbai is the richest city in India. It has more millionaires and billionaires than any other city in Central Asia. Alongside immense wealth and opulence, poverty is ever-present.
The scenery changes abruptly — from slums to luxury car showrooms. The gap between rich and poor is enormous. And yet, the city functions.
The people give it its unique charm. They are friendly, warm, and almost always smiling.
Food, colors, life
Mumbai has some of the best traditional Indian food you’ll ever taste. An abundance of flavors, spices, and aromas.
What made me fall in love with India first was the food.
At every corner, new smells attack your senses — some overwhelming, others irresistible. Street food is delicious and incredibly cheap. The rule is simple: eat where you see crowds. Popularity is the best recommendation.
Make sure the food is prepared in front of you, and always use bottled water.
India is a land of colors, spices, and contrasts. Women wear stunning saris in vibrant shades that are impossible to ignore.
The first thing you need to do before visiting India is leave all your prejudices behind.
India is a destination for refined minds, gourmets, and adventurers.
Mumbai has some of the best traditional Indian food you’ll ever taste. An abundance of flavors, spices, and aromas.
What made me fall in love with India first was the food.
At every corner, new smells attack your senses — some overwhelming, others irresistible. Street food is delicious and incredibly cheap. The rule is simple: eat where you see crowds. Popularity is the best recommendation.
Make sure the food is prepared in front of you, and always use bottled water.
India is a land of colors, spices, and contrasts. Women wear stunning saris in vibrant shades that are impossible to ignore.
The first thing you need to do before visiting India is leave all your prejudices behind.
India is a destination for refined minds, gourmets, and adventurers.
A city of contradictions
Wandering through Mumbai, you see glass skyscrapers, luxury shops, cinemas, and restaurants — with noisy slums hidden just behind them. The city is an antithesis.
It’s fascinating how Indian chaos attempts to align itself with Western patterns: elegant residential buildings with elevators operated by attendants who press the buttons for you, cars with drivers, household staff.
Mumbai is also home to Bollywood. Local celebrities prefer to live by the sea, in luxurious villas or elegant buildings with gardens and exclusive clubs. Luxury and excess.
And yet, parallel to this world, there is another one — where people live in lucid poverty, sleep on the streets, and eat whatever they can find.
Wandering through Mumbai, you see glass skyscrapers, luxury shops, cinemas, and restaurants — with noisy slums hidden just behind them. The city is an antithesis.
It’s fascinating how Indian chaos attempts to align itself with Western patterns: elegant residential buildings with elevators operated by attendants who press the buttons for you, cars with drivers, household staff.
Mumbai is also home to Bollywood. Local celebrities prefer to live by the sea, in luxurious villas or elegant buildings with gardens and exclusive clubs. Luxury and excess.
And yet, parallel to this world, there is another one — where people live in lucid poverty, sleep on the streets, and eat whatever they can find.